Christmas Tree

6 months old

Out little bassotto nano is 6 months old today! And, to celebrate we took her to the vet to get her rabies shot. She had a great exam from the vet. It was definitely a test in my Italian skills, but I managed to understand everything and communicate pretty well.

Libby is a whopping 2.9 kilos (or about 6.3lbs.) and is about 15in. long. She won't get much larger and should only gain about a pound or so more, based on the size of her parents.

Dachshunds are notoriously stubborn and hard to house train, but Libby is doing great. She's learning to let us know when she needs out and is keeping her accidents to a minimum.

We absolutely LOVE her and she has been such a blessing in our life.

Christmas Market in Piazza Navona

I was given early departure from work today in celebration of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, a.k.a. the official start of the Christmas season in Italy, as well as the busiest shopping day of the year. So at 2:30 on the dot I headed for the station and met up with Jim in the center. He had just finished watching a ceremony with the Pope and I wanted to go to the Christmas Market in Piazza Navona. The market has a lot of junk, a lot of candy, and a few hidden gems, like my favorite ornament stand. I bought 6 beautiful hand-painted ornaments to complete our very first Christmas tree. (Pictures to come soon!) We didn't put up a tree last year since we weren't going to be in Rome for Christmas and it really felt like something was missing.

Here are a few pictures from the market.

The Pope

Piazza Navona jammed packed with people.

Bufana

Buying my favorite hand-painted ornaments to complete our Chirstmas tree

Creamy Polenta with Mushroom Ragù

This is one of my favorite times of year to cook. You can guiltlessly cook hearty, stick-to-your-ribs meals full of robust flavors. It's something about the crisp air that just makes it okay.

Tonight we're having one of those stick-to-your-ribs kinds of meals - creamy polenta with mushroom ragù.

The polenta cooks for hours and gets so thick and creamy it is like eating velvet. And the mushrooms add another rich layer of flavor with a hint of truffle oil drizzled at the end.

For the polenta:

3 cups milk

1 cup heavy cream

2 tsp. salt

2/3 cup polenta, or course ground cornmeal

1 Tbsp. butter, unsalted

2 Tbsp. freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano

In a heavy-bottomed pan, combine the milk and cream. Heat until it is just bubbling. Add the salt and whisk in the polenta, then bring the mixture to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to low and cover. Cook the polenta for about 2 hours, stirring every 5 minutes. Just before serving stir in the butter and the cheese.

For the mushroom ragù:

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 shallots thinly sliced

2 cups of mushrooms (I prefer a wild mix) roughly chopped

1/2 cup reduced stock, either veggie or chicken (I use 1/2 cup water with 1 bouillon cube dissolved because they don't sell pre-made stock in stores)

Truffle oil to drizzle

In a large sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until the shallots begin to turn colors. Add the mushrooms and cook until the liquid has released. Add the stock, reduce the heat and simmer until liquid has reduced by half.

To serve, spoon the polenta onto a plate, top with the mushroom ragù, then drizzle with a few drops of truffle oil.

Tonight I served the polenta with roasted Brussels spouts. Heat the oven to 400F (200C), trim the sprouts, coat in olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast them for about 40 min. They will be crispy on the outside and soft in the inside, and, I can actually tolerate eating them this way.

Buon appetito!

Lately

Since our trip to Venice we have been going non-stop. We found out that Great Gran wasn't doing well on our way home and had to make a last minute trip to Auburn. We hated having to go home for a family emergency, but the time with friends and family couldn't have come at a better time.

We flew overnight back to Rome and I went straight to work on Monday, that Wednesday we flew to Lisbon, Portugal. I had to attend a conference and teach a workshop, but still found plenty of time to explore. We got back the Sunday before Thanksgiving and I think we are all caught up and back on schedule.

We had to leave Libby in Rome the whole time we were travelling. Thankfully one of my good friends agreed to move in to our apartment while we were gone. Libby is amazing and such a blessing. My job has been extremely stressful the past few months and having a sweet little puppy to remind me not to take life so seriously has been a life saver.

Now, back to Lisbon. This should immediately be moved to the very top of your list of places to go. Lisbon is a modern city steeped in rich culture and history. It is cheap, the food is delicious, and the people are so nice. And, not to mention, the language is beautiful. What isn't to love?

Here are a few pictures, though they don't do the city justice.

Bacalhua à Brás at a little hole in the wall in the Barrio Alto. €24 for way more food than we could ever eat!

Pasteis de Belém - addictive Portuguese pastry made with cream and eggs, topped with cinnamon and powdered sugar. Yum, yum, yum!!!

Venezia

We spent a long weekend in Venice. Woke up at 3am on Saturday and caught a 6:30am Easy Jet flight to Venice. The weekend was non-stop walking, eating, drinking wine, and eating - did I mention that we ate a lot?

Yes, Venice is touristy. Yes, Venice is expensive. But, Venice is also incredibly beautiful. There really is no other city like it. Don't forget to make dinner reservations - you won't get in anywhere without them. And pick up a map when you arrive so you can get off the beaten path and "get lost" in one of the most unique cities in the world.

Where we stayed:

Fujiyama Bed & Breakfast

A few places worth trying:

Vecio Fritolin - delicious Venetian classics with an updated twist.

Da Romano - On the island of Burano, this is a must. Try the goh risotto and you will not be disappointed.

You also must stop at one of the many bàcaro, traditional wine bars, for cicchetto and ombra, Venetian tapas and a small (usually only €1) glass of wine.

A New Addition

Welcome to our family little miss Liberty Belle! Libby is un bassotto nano pelo duro, that's a miniature wire-haired dachshund, and we LOVE her.

One year in Rome

A year ago today I stepped on a plane and started a new life in Rome. We've grown to love this city and this country, and each day it gets a little easier being so far away from family and friends.

On that note I'll leave you with a few photos from this past year.

And it wouldn't be complete without

the classic cat picture.

The Language Barrier...Update

It's been a little over a week a week that I decided I was going to learn Italian for real. I made the goal of studying 30 minutes a day during the week and then longer on the weekends. Well, needless to say, I'm still on the Primi Contatti section of my Italian textbook. But, every day I think about learning Italian, so that has to count for something, right?

Okay, so even though I haven't made the best effort at sticking to a daily study schedule, I did join a yoga center in Trastevere. But what, might you ask, does this have to do with learning Italian? Well, the classes are only taught in Italian. I had my first class last night, I was a little nervous going in. But after an hour and half I was communicating pretty well with the instructor, Alessandro, and the other student, Valentina. Plus, I've learned loads of words so far, mainly body parts, and a few useful yoga phrases.

And now for a funny observation. Any one that knows me knows that I always am getting my lefts and rights confused. It is sad, I know, but it's just the way I am. I was thinking maybe this would be true only in English, but no. I also get my lefts (sinistra) and rights (destra) mixed up in Italian. Alessandro would say "gamba destra" and I'd stick out my left leg. Then he would chuckle and say "no, l'altra gamba!" Mamma mia...maybe one day I'll get it figured out.

I'm really looking forward to my next class Thursday night.

Ciao a tutti.

Forno al Ghetto

This little, unmarked corner store holds the key to happiness - my beloved Forno al Ghetto. This is where you can get an unbelievably delicious torta di ricotta e ciocolata made by 3 old Jewish-Italian ladies. They serve it with attitude and they get angry when they have to cut up a pie in less than a quarter, but it is worth it.

They have lots of other slightly burnt baked goods, like a macaroons, hand-held fruitcake type breads, and cinnamon-almond biscotti.

My favorite day to go is on Sundays. Because it is in the Jewish area of town it is closed on Saturdays. They sell out fast, so go early.

When in Rome, this is a must.

The Language Barrier

Well, I'm ashamed to confess that after living in Italy for a year I still can't hold a conversation in Italian. I'm really good at getting by and talking food, but honestly that is about it. I still find myself speaking Spanish with an Italian accent, without even realizing, yet thinking people will understand.

And, while I'm confessing, I'll add that I bought a great Italian textbook while I was here as an intern in 2009 and I'm still on the Primi contatti, the little section that comes before lesson one. Yup, it's bad.

I work in English and English is the common language with all my friends, so I really only need Italian on the weekends when we are going to the market, running errands, or going out to eat. But, it definitely doesn't give you a good sense of belonging and I need to stop making excuses. So I'm making it my goal to become fluent in Italian. I'm going to spend 30 minutes each weekday and then 1-2 hours a day on the weekends studying, and I'm going insist that my Italian friends only speak Italian with me.

I'm throwing caution to the wind and putting my fears of sounding stupid aside. So here's to learning the language. Wish me luck!

Ciao a tutti.

Milk Bar & Zenzero

We kept our first anniversary simple. We went to 2 of our favorite places, Milk Bar & Zenzero. Both are in the coastal town of Ostia Lido, just a quick 25 min. metro ride outside of Rome.

Ostia Lido has a laid back, small town feel and we love it.

Milk Bar is a great little apertivo spot in the main piazza of the town. In addition to a good Aperol spritz, you can pick up a jug of milk. The constant stream of clientele coming just for milk is enough proves the concept works.

Zenzero is a bio-restaurant that has a great gluten-free menu, in addition to a really good seafood or vegetarian menu. This place is perfect, because of course I can get something that I like and won't make me sick and Jim can get something that he likes. We've been so many times that they recognize us, though I would guess that they don't get many repeat American customers, especially any that are gluten-free and tomato-free.

Feeling settled

Well, it's taken a while, but I'm happy to say that after living in Rome for a year we are finally starting to feel settled. We've finished fixing up the patio, including negotiating with the owner to buy a nice little table, and bought lots of plants to make our little slice of outdoor space green. We also bought a little charcoal grill and have been grilling a few times a week. We have until mid-October to enjoy the patio, then it starts raining and literally won't stop until February.

Rome is also starting to adjust to us living here too. A fried chicken place, yes, that's right, a fried chicken place called Chicken Hut opened just down the hill. We went there today and Jim got a fried chicken sandwich. He was in heaven.

I'll leave you with a few snap shots from the patio.

Back to the daily grind...

Well, it's back to the daily grind here in Rome.

Just back from my one month contract break, aka mandatory unpaid vacation, in Auburn.

The month went by waaaay too fast, but it was nice to spend time with friends and family, and of course Dolce and Fratello. The month was filled with appointments, making jewelry, getting my fix of Food Network, stocking up on all my favorite health food (and gluten free) goodies (Larabars and dry roasted edamame...yum!), decompressing from a stressful year and maybe a little shopping.

I started my new contract today and I'm excited about the projects coming up this fall. And, I'm excited about starting our second year in Rome, along with our second year of marriage. Our first year was full of challenges and adjustments, but now the hard part is over and we can just focus on enjoying the city and country we are calling home.

Ceci Flatbread

The word ceci, besides being one of the best words in the Italian language, means garbanzo bean.

Garbanzo beans are pretty amazing little things. They are low in fat, high in fiber and protein, and they are a great source of minerals, like iron, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium and zinc. And not to mention they are gluten free!

This flat bread recipe is the perfect accompaniment to a salad for a light dinner, or as an easy appetizer for a dinner party. This recipe is an adaptation of the northern Italian classic "farinata."

Here's what you need:

1/2 cup garbanzo bean flour

3/4 cup water

1 small onion, thinly sliced in to "half-moons"

2 sprigs of rosemary, finely minced

2 T extra virgin olive oil

1/4 tsp. sea salt

For this recipe you will also need a 9-inch non-stick pan that is oven safe (no plastic on the handle!)

The one downside of this recipe, at least with our old oven that isn't well insulated, is that it heats up the kitchen!

Start by cranking up the oven to 450F.

While the oven is heating, combine the garbanzo bean flour and water in a mixing bowl and set aside. The mixture will be very loose, don't be worried.

Slice the onion and scatter the slices in the pan. Mince the rosemary then add it to the onions. Drizzle the onions and rosemary with the olive oil and place the pan in the oven. Let the onions cook for 10-15 minutes until they are fragrant and translucent.

Take the pan out of the oven and gently pour in the batter. Place back in the oven and cook for 15-20 minutes until the bread is golden across the top and just starting to brown on the edges.

To serve slice into 8 pieces.

The great thing about this recipe is it's versatility.

Make a North African version by adding spices like cumin and cinnamon, or keep it plain and use it as the base for a gluten free pizza.

The possibilities are endless!

Buon appetito!

Capri

Last weekend we headed south to Capri while Laura and Dustin were visiting.

Capri is notoriously expensive, but we stayed in Anacapri, which is a little less expensive and a little less touristy. We stayed at Villa Eva, which is located just outside of the center of Anacapri and has a lovely pool to relax at.

Here are a few pictures:

Rosemary Simple Syrup

Here is my recipe for one of my springtime favorites, Rosemary Simple Syrup.

Rosemary is one of those herbs I always have around, thanks to my trusty little plant that I couldn't kill even if I tried, and I'm always trying to figure out what else I can do with it. Well, here is one of my sweet solutions:

1 cup sugar

1 cup water

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

In a sauce pan combine sugar, water and rosemary (just toss in the whole sprigs). Turn the heat on low, stir, and let the mixture come to a simmer. Once it comes to a simmer turn off the heat. Let the mixture cool, then take out the rosemary sprigs.

Et voila! You now have a delicious light syrup that can be used with just about anything.

For a cool refreshment, add one shot of the rosemary simple syrup to a glass, the juice of half a lemon, then fill the glass with sparkling water, like San Pellegrino. Top the glass of with a few ice cubes, stir and enjoy a refreshing glass of Sparkling Rosemary Lemonade.

Or, keep it super simple and just pour a little over a fresh fruit salad.

Enjoy!

Cefalú, Sicilia

Many people have asked us what we did on our trip to Cefalú and each time we answer we struggle find something other to say than "well we ate a lot."

Jim and I are sort of 'foodies'. Every time we travel we want to know what is the best thing to eat in that area and most of our activities involve food. Jim definitely has fun with this as he can eat anything and enjoys trying the 'nasty bits'. So for us our trip to Sicilia was all about the food.

Sicilia is uniquely positioned in the Mediterranean just north of Africa and being kicked by the toe of Italy. Over time the island has been ruled by the Romans, Greeks, Vandals, Normans, Spanish, Byzantines and was once an Islamic state known as the Emirate of Sicily. Sicilia's intriguing history means that it has a unique mix of cultures visible in it's cuisine. From panella to couscous di pesce the north African influence is definitely felt. You can also find the roots of some Italian-American favorites, like caponata and cannoli. It really is a food-lovers destination that is not to be missed.

Other than the food, Cefalú was about R&R. It is a medieval village about a hour by train from Palermo, on the north side of the island. There are lots of little shops, quaint streets to walk up and down, a beach, and lots of great places to hike in the area.

Here's a little snapshot of our trip:

Going Gluten Free

For those of you that know me, you know that I have major issues with food. Every time we go to a restaurant the biggest question is always, "Is there anything that Emma can eat?"

I am extremely allergic to tomatoes and shellfish, I don't eat meat, and I have a sensitivity to gluten. That means I can eat gluten, the main protein found in wheat, I just feel really awful for days after.

Towards the end of high school, on a quest to feel better, I cut out all processed foods and began eating all natural, organic foods. Then early into college I decided to go vegetarian in an effort to add more diversity into my diet. Still, I wasn't feeling great. I went to a gastroenterologist, hoping they would find some reason for my pain, and after testing negative for celiacs, chrons disease, and several other intestinal ailments, the doctor told me I had chronically inflamed small intestines with IBS (whatever that means) and should try a healthier diet and lifestyle. I absolutely had to laugh at this. At that point, I was eating the same diet as my guinea pigs. And I definitely ate better than any other college student I knew.

After that I went on a raw vegan diet. I was juicing green juice every morning and making living dehydrated goodies in my dehydrator. I felt great. For the first time I wasn't in pain after I ate. I had more energy, glowing skin, and felt like the fog had been lifted. Unfortunately it was just too time consuming. I was spending hours and hours, shopping, soaking, cutting, and waiting for foods to be ready. It was not really feasible for me to continue with that lifestyle.

Since then I've had a mostly raw vegetarian diet eating little processed foods and very little gluten. Moving to Italy has definitely thrown a wrench in that plan. Since September I've been indulging on pastries, pasta, and bread and it is killing me. In January I decided that I just couldn't eat that much gluten. I had to start cutting it out. I thought if I ate gluten free most of the time I would be fine and could let myself have the occasional cacio e pepe or pizza, mainly just for when we wanted to go out to eat. But I'm hear to tell you that was one of the worst ideas ever.

This week I've decided to go completely gluten free. I'm mourning the loss of all my favorite foods and I'm not sure how I'm going to be able to go the rest of my life without real bread and real pasta and real pastries. On Friday night I was making cupcakes for Jim's birthday, and, as sad as this is, I was actually crying while I was making them because I knew I couldn't have any of them. I couldn't lick the bowl and I couldn't enjoy a birthday cupcake.

The next few weeks and months are going to be really hard, but I have to feel better. I'm very thankful to have such a great husband that can put up with the breakdowns I've had and will continue to have as I cut gluten out. I've been focusing on all the foods I can't have, but there are way more foods that I can have. I just need to plan ahead and stay positive. And even though I'm in Italy, the capital of gluten, there are lots of great gluten free options.

There is a wonderful gluten free bakery, Le Ben, in Trastevere that has bread, pizza, and pastries. The grocery stores all have delicious gluten free pastas, and the markets here are fabulous. I have cheap, fresh, and seasonal produce within arms reach. There is a great restaurant called Zenzero on the coast, just 30 min. away, that has an extensive gluten free menu. And, I have an awesome family who is willing to use some of their limited packing space to bring me food, like gluten free Bisquick and gluten free pretzels, when they come visit. :-)

So here's to feeling better, hopefully for good!

Busy, busy, busy...

Where has the past month and a half gone???

We've done a day trip to Ostia Antica, then a weekend trip to Firenze, followed by a wonderful visit from my mom. Then I had a week long trip to Canada (brrr...) to attend and speak at the 6th annual University Hunger Summit, and then I was off to Torino to attend the annual Inter-Agency meeting for the UN Heads of Youth Programmes. Then a visit from a family friend and finally we had a great visit from Jim's parents that included some much needed relaxation at a winery and agriturismo in Toscana with an impromptu trip to Firenze on the way back to Rome.

And, in the middle of all of that there were still errands to run, clothes to be washed (which takes days with no dryer), food to be bought and cooked. All with the two of us working full time. Yup, that's right! Jim started an internship at FAO (the UN Food & Agriculture Organization) in February. He is working in the forestry department assisting with research on multiple use forests in the tropics. (I'll let him elaborate on the details.)

In a few more weeks we will be off to Sicily for some much needed R&R. We're staying in a tiny little town in the north of the island called Cefalu. Our plan is to eat and relax on the beach. I can't wait!

Firenze

Jim and I took the first train to Firenze (Florence) on Saturday morning. Arrived around 8:30, dropped our bags at the hotel and headed to Il Duomo, the nickname for the stunningly beautiful cathedral in the center of the city. We headed in and climbed the stairs to the top. We were the first and only people for about 30 min. and we had the birds-eye view of Firenze all to ourselves.

Florence is beautiful. It is a compact city, but it is jam-packed with things to do. If you like art, this is your place. We only went to the Galleria Accademia, where the David is, but I'm dying to go back and make a trip to the Uffizi.

Here are some pictures from our trip: